Materials. The characteristic of fabrics and materials

Application - creates a pattern by overlaying of the cut out pieces of a matter on a textile basis of other kind. It was fashionable during an epoch of the Renaissance and intended, first of all, for church vestments.

The atlas - a-silk, woollen or linen fabric from a brilliant yarn, woven atlasovym an interlacing doing possible difficult the sample. In places where utkovye threads freely lay over the cores, there are brilliant surfaces, there where they are weaved, there are matte surfaces. The satiny fabrics, the known Middle Ages since time, used mainly as decorative, and also for smart ceremonial toilets.

Velvet - a silk, woollen or cotton fabric with tjanutym or cut pile. The beginning takes, visible, in Italy. In 1247 the Venetian weavers of a velvet have received the permission to found own guild. In it has resulted aspiration even more to increase magnificence of silk fabrics. The motive of a pomegranate with big rapportom, mostly tyomnokrasnogo and gold colour, sometimes with gold loops became a typical ornament during an epoch of a late gothic style and the Renaissance. During an epoch of the Renaissance drawing was often created izvetnymi by artists (A.Pollajuolo). During an epoch of baroque the velvet becomes multi-colour, in XVIII century drawing on a velvet becomes more small. In the beginning of XVII century in the central Europe the woollen velvet replaces the inaccessible silk under the price. It is used basically for tapestry materials and for clothes.

Lawn - very thin linen fabric, which native land India. It was used for thin linen, summer and smart clothes.

Spangles - brilliant thin metal plates, mainly roundish, with a hole for sewing, were used for an ornament. The embroidery of the technician of an ornament ready tekstilno go products by means of a various kind of stitches from colour or metal threads was known already during ancient time. Some epoch, e.g., a late gothic style, gave it preference before the weaved pattern. By means of an embroidery were decorated, and the first turn, church vestments, but also and secular clothes, ornaments with figures and vegetative motives were used. Splendour of the embroidered attires reaches tops during a baroque epoch when textile products lose the naturalness and turn to rigid scenery with rich, frequently gold relief ornaments.

Damascus - a silk, woollen or cotton fabric, woven a linen or cedar interlacing, sometimes in a combination with atlasovym. Silk Damascus east origin, is heavy, gustotkanaja a matter, intended first of all for church vestments and for a furniture upholstery, and some easier kinds and for clothes. Cotton and linen Damascus during new time is used and for linen, curtains and obivochnoj fabrics. In XVII century were fashionable, especially to Spain, the big lanes from this fabric with rapportom drawing to 2 m. In XVIII century this fabric often simulates a lace by creation of white thin drawing on a dark background.

Diasporas - dvuhutkovaja a silk matter with a thin gold thread, woven a linen interlacing with one risunochnym and one connecting utkom. It was popular in the Middle Ages.

Cashmere - a fabric keprovogo interlacings from a wool of Kashmir goats. The wool of these goats is famous for a subtlety and length. Cashmere is used for ladies' clothes, and stuffed on stuffed scarfs.

Kment - (a cambric cloth) more rough fabric of the same kind and application, as lawn. It is mentioned already in the Old testament.

Skin - art of manufacture of a skin was known already during ancient times. During historical epoch the skin was used basically for footwear, and also for some kinds of clothes (headdresses, leather trousers in XVII) a century). Only during new time began possible to use widely a skin not only for the sports purposes, but also for target man's and ladies' clothes.

Krep - a thin rare fabric, silk or cotton with wavy bent fibres after sotkanija. Intended mainly for veils.

Lace - a strip or a piece of the textiles received or by sewing or weaving. The basic development of lacy business falls for XVII century when use of laces for an ornament of secular and church clothes has extended. Venice and Bruxelles were the basic centres on manufacture of laces. Occurrence of laces of machine development in XIX century has made this expensive ornament of luxury goods usual addition of clothes, first of all linen.

Flax — a vegetative fibre which use for manufacture of fabrics it is mentioned already in an antiquity. About linen fabrics data from Ancient Egypt, a classical antiquity, from Germen, Slavs and Celts have reached. Linen fabrics of various density, bleached and severe, were daily applied in Egypt in the Middle Ages to clothes and bed-clothes, for house and working clothes, for a lining.

Tape - the strip of a fabric weaved more often from natural or artificial silk or a clap. Since XVII century of a tape were used for an ornament of clothes both man's, and female, and also hairdresses and hats. Refined use of tapes, especially during a rococo epoch, has poured out in difficult game of symbolical allegories.

Fur - the manufactured skin of animals with a dense and strong wool. Primitively processed furs were, most likely, the first material, which person has applied to the bed and clothes. The fur was used for clothes during all historical epoch, but long time it served only as a lining or furnish. Some kinds of rare furs became a symbol high secular or a holy order (ermine). The sable concerns the most expensive furs, an ermine, a mink, the Siberian marten, chernoburaja and a red fox, a chinchilla, astrakhan fur.

Mohair - a fabric from a wool of the Angora goat, very thin and long, with silky shine. To Europe it has been delivered from Asia Minor.

Moire - shine on a fabric, arising at squeezing and flattening utkovyh threads. So fabrics from the brilliant yarn, all silk become.

Muslin - an easy transparent fabric, silk or woollen. Its native land is India. In Europe it was especially fashionable during an epoch an empire style.

Stuffing - on fabrics has arisen much earlier, than the press on a paper. In the east, visible, already and ancient time was the technics manual raskraski fabrics (a covering of a matter for a layer of wax or linkage of certain places which should remain unpainted) is known. The technics of direct stuffing occurs, possibly, from Egypt, from koptov. Long time there was a stuffing one-colour, more often dark blue (national stuffing by an indigo paint). Throughout all Middle Ages there are stuffed fabrics which are used for practical chains on working clothes, linings etc., and also simulate more expensive parchovye and velvet materials. Stuffing was made by means of wooden forms into which later drove in metal tips that pattern drawing was more thin. During new time in Europe have refused stuffing by means of wooden forms, and began to apply sample, so-called And even to reproduce a film way which allows to create an ornament of difficult colouring very difficult samples from the art point of view. Thereby a stuffed fabric has reached gaet one level with a material, a woven ornament. It is used for clothes, lanes and an upholstery. Simultaneously, however, manual stuffing from wooden forms again renews, and the stuffed dark blue fabrics national or made on national motives about use of an indigo paint again become fashionable. A stuffed fabric a silk fabric for ladies' dresses with stuffed colour drawing.

Brocade - a heavy silk fabric with a pattern weaved by gold or silver threads (i.e. Usually it is the linen threads twisted with a thin gold or gilt thread). Brocade was used for smart palace and church clothes.

Plisse - small nezastrochennye folds on a fabric were known already during ancient time (Egypt). During new time plisse becomes by means of the special car.

Cloth - the fabric of a linen interlacing from flax, a hemp or a clap, was well-known already during ancient time. It is used for clothes and bed-clothes.

Purple - very expensive dye known since ancient times. A paint received from juice of molluscs (tigeh, isstit, rigriga} and it gave the whole scale of shades from temnofioletovogo to red and brown. Colouring by purple was very expensive, later have started it to replace with purple vegetative. The raincoat of purple colour was a high office symbol.

Rubber. With opening of volcanic rubber in the middle of XIX century rubber becomes widely applied material. In clothes matters exclusively practical, instead of aesthetic.

Taffeta - a matter, woven a linen interlacing from the boiled down silk, usually one-colour. Intended for lady's wear.

Band - textiles in the form of a strip, the employee for a border on decorative and odezhnyh fabrics. Occurs, visible, from Germany (the Cologne band of XV century). From now on the band has become fashionable, often it becomes with a magnificent ornament.

Tulle - a rare, thin fabric from a clap, silk or flax. shestigrannaja the repeating loop does not arise by tkanja, and by interweaving utkovyh threads in a basis. The fabric is intended for easy decorative curtains and evening dresses.

Felt - the nonwoven matter produced from a waste of a wool, fur on uparivajushchih cars by pressing and valjanija. It is used mainly for manufacture of hats and footwear.

fru-fru (goi-goi) - the rustle of female underwear reached with the help taftovyh of mother. lov. Was fashionable on a boundary of centuries, about 1900, trousers-plund in XVI century, having special cuts which "rustled" were its predecessor.

The cotton fabric - becomes from the vegetative fibre received from hlopko vyh of seeds. The most ancient finds svid stvujut that the clap was known in VII in d.C. in India. Through Arabs it gets to Palestin, Egypt, Andalusia, Sicily. Till the end of XVIII century finished articles are imported into Europe from a clap only. In 1772 in England there is a manufacture of cotton fabrics, and soon behind it the epoch of development of the cotton industry in all Europe begins.

SHarlah - the name of a fabric and a paint of brightly red colour. In the Middle Ages this paint received from insects (sosia////5/5), or krappa (a madder root), or sandalovogo a tree. The fabric was applied to smart clothes of secular and church dignitaries.

Silk - the natural fibre received from cocoons of a silkworm. Throughout history softness, shine, elasticity and a pleasant rustle of silk fabrics were highly appreciated. China where with III tysjachiletija BC and till VI century the secret of its manufacture remained as fiduciary was the native land shekoaodstva. Till this time it got to Europe only in the form of ready fabrics. At Alexander the Great it becomes known in Rome where for it pay in gold. At emperor Justiniane silk manufacture begins in Byzantium with the centre in Tsargrad, the further blossoming is observed in the Arabian areas (sowing. Africa, Sicily, juzh. Spain), then in Italy during an epoch of the Middle Ages and in France during a baroque epoch. Silk fabrics intended at all times for solemn occasions, it concerns both clothes, and tapestry materials for an interior. For both purposes drawing of silk fabrics long time remained identical. Only in the beginning of an epoch of the Renaissance when extends rapport for tapestry materials more and more, there is other, smaller drawing for the fabrics intended for clothes. Only in XVII century drawing of fabrics for man's and lady's wear starts to differ.

Wool - a natural fibre from a wool of sheep. Goats, camels. Wool processing was known already to the most ancient civilisations in Forward Asia. From here this art has got into Greece and other Europe. During new time superiority in wool manufacture belongs to England. Already during antique time the woollen fabrics serving clothes were made (koptskie fabrics), in the Middle Ages already in all Europe cloth manufacture in wide assortment both on quality, and on a colouring has been widely developed.